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Sunday 15 January 2012

St Michael's Way - part 2

Last week we left you, gentle reader, poised on the top of Trencrom Hill, staring blankly into the low cloud expecting stunning views of St Ives Bay across to Godrevy Light and southwards towards St Michael's Mount. This was harsh and so, this weekend, we returned to the hill for the third time this  year to prove that it really is a hill worth climbing and that there are indeed great views. From the top of Trencrom (or Trecrobben) you, or the giant that once lived here, could easily toss a bob-button over towards St Michael's Mount. From here, Iron Age man could control the isthmus between St Ives and Marazion. But enough history, let us get on with this week's walk.

There were four of us, one sporting some brand-new Chinese wellington boots, plus one four-footed friend who had thoughtfully fragranced the car so we were all in need of fresh air. The day was bright, the wind brisk and cold; ideal for walking. A quick climb up the hill followed by a check on the well and hut circles before we set off towards a charming converted chapel at Ninnes Bridge. Here there was a delightful small garden with a row of standing stones with their own little celtic cross.

Before long we found ourselves adopted by a large and friendly black labrador who decided he needed to show us the way. Nothing we could do would persuade him to return home and he confidently headed off in the right direction at every stile. Before long, we crested a rise and there was the Mount, directly due south of us. What a sight this must have been for the pilgrim heading for Compostela: evidence that Cornwall was a country of faith and beauty.

The path crossed fields, down into valleys and up the other sides, with stunning views down to Mount's Bay almost all the time. In the distance kites and a windsurfer suggested that even on a brisk January day some hardy souls were taking advantage of the conditions.

Ludgvan was our planned lunch stop but the pub was packed and food would take an hour. The black labrador was obviously a regular for he went straight into the pub as though he belonged. This gave us the perfect excuse to leave him there to drink his fill as we set off for the last leg towards Gulval.  No doubt someone would carry him out at the end of the day.
The country changed and we soon found ourselves on what must once have been the pre-A30 main road with sandy Mount's Bay fields on either hand, following the contour between the two villages, the roar of traffic a constant companion and nothing to ruin the view except for B&Q, Curry's, Halfords and the shambles of buildings that is Long Rock industrial estate. On the distant hilltop, Paul church beckoned us on.

Gulval is charming and clearly something of a Bolitho model village from 1895. We did not regret missing the White Hart in Ludgvan one bit for we discovered the Coldstreamer whose food was top notch, the soup, cake and coffee all being remarked on; in other words, everything we ate. Highly recommended.
Oh, all right, if you insist, here is another picture. Has earth anything to show more fair: Cudden, the Greeb, St Michael's and wonderful memories all on a crisp winter's day?

5.9 miles in two and a half hours.
The St Michael's Way story in pictures
The St Michael's Way map